How to Make Collars & Leashes

Collars		Part #s
Width	Length	Webbing	Tri-glide	Loop	Buckle	Ring
3/8" (X-Small)	short	WE10/B	202 PL/10	L8A PL/10	507 PL/10	4520/10 NP
	long
5/8" (Small)	short	WE15/B	202 PL/17	L8A PL/16	507 PL/17	4520/16 NP
	long
3/4" (Medium)	short	WE20/B	202 PL/20	408 PL/20	507 PL/20	4520/20 NP
	long
1" (Large)	short	WE25/B	202 PL/25	L8A PL/25	507 PL/25	4520/24 NP
	long			408 PL/25
1-1/2" (X-Large)	short	WE40/B	202 PL/40	L8A PL/40	507 PL/40	4520/40 NP
	long

I use two different loops for the 1" collar: round (L8A) & square (408). Neither fit the 1" webbing perfectly. The round is a little tight. The square a little loose. I use the round loop on the Short collar, the square (which is stronger) on the Long. I may end up using the square for both.

For 3/4" collars I use the square (408) loops. That webbing is thick. The round loop doesn't fit.

Thread

I use Tex-70 polyester thread for the 3/8" to 3/4" webbing. I use Tex 90 for 1" & 1-1/2". (Tex 70 is strong enough for the larger collars. Compensate by sewing a few more stitches). I use Amann "Outdoor Pro" or "Serabond." (It seems like the former is replacing the latter.). You can find this thread at Wawak or Relicate.

I use white (7003) for the top thread. Black (7020) for the bottom (bobbin). To use different colors like this you have to get your thread tension balanced (or the white will pull through to the black side which won't look good). Even then, occasionally the white thread will pull through. Use a Sharpie pen to blot that out. You could use black thread on both sides, but I like the stitches to be visible on the inside so the sturdiness can be seen. Gray wouldn't show as brightly if it pulls through to the black-thread side. I still use white because I have it dialed in.

This color chart shows the Serabond & Outdoor Pro colors.

1. Sew one end onto the tri-glide:

2. Thread the webbing through a) the loop, b) bottom-slot of the male buckle, c) top-slot, d) the loop again, and e) the tri-glide:

Be sure the overlap at the tri-glide goes between the webbing. If exposed, that could be less comfortable.

Be sure to use the MALE buckle. It contributes to the collar holding it's adjusted size.

Note: The 1-1/2" loop has a curved side. The flat side should face the dog.

3. Sew the remaining end onto a D-ring & female buckle:

I use bartacks. Retail collars usually have a "box-x" pattern. Box-x takes a little more space (longer overlapped webbing). A bartack is strong enough; two gives redundancy (if the stitching fails). Using less space means the webbing can have less overlap. Shorter overlap lets the collar have more adjustable range (fits more dogs).

The photos above show a 1"-wide collar which gets two bartacks at all three locations (tri-glide & both sides of the D-ring.) The smallest collars get fewer.

The following table shows how long to cut the webbing & where to mark the ends. Also the number of bartacks:

Collars		Cut length	Sewn ends				Adjustable range
			Tri-glide		Male buckle
Width	Length		Mark	Tacks	Mark	Tacks
3/8 (X-Small)	short	11-5/8	1-5/8	1	1-7/8	1+1	5-7/8	to	9
	long	15-1/4			2-5/8	2+2	7-5/8	to	12-1/4
5/8 (Small)	short	17-5/8	2-1/4	1	3-3/8	2+2	8-3/4	to	13-1/8
	long	20-3/8	2-3/8	2			10-1/8	to	15-3/4
3/4 (Medium)	short	22-3/4	2-3/4	2	4	2+2	11-1/4	to	17-3/8
	long	26-5/8					13-1/4	to	21-3/8
1 (Large)	short	28-3/8	3	2	4-1/4	2+2	14-3/8	to	23
	long	33-3/8					17	to	28
1-1/2 (X-Large)	short	33-5/8	3-3/8	2	5-1/4	2+2	17-3/8	to	27-5/8
	long	37-5/8					19-1/4	to	31-1/2

Bartacks

For the tri-glide end: two bartacks are probably overkill for even the largest collars. These stitches receive almost no stress (consider how it's buried under another layer of webbing sharing the load, like a pulley. That tack gets half the force. It's also never exposed to external abrasion like the buckle-end stitches.). I start double-tacking the tri-glide with the 5/8"-Long size. I like the added sense of durability, redundancy. But, none of the sizes need two here. Which size to start using two is subjective.

For the male buckle end: I sew two bartacks on each side of the D-ring starting with the 3/8"-Long collar. (For the 3/8"-Short, I sew one tack each side. This collar couldn't fit an animal that pulls much.). It's probably safe to use one tack for all the collars. If either tack failed, the collar wouldn't come apart (the D-ring would still be captive on the collar). These tacks receive more force than the tri-glide tack(s). It makes sense to me to use two. Again, this is arbitrary.

I created packing labels you can use (print the PDF, or modify the .odg source with LibreOffice Draw). I stand a dozen collars against each other (on their side). I stack a dozen more and set those on top of the first dozen. Using ordinary kitchen plastic/cling wrap, I fold it over the packing label, and wrap the plastic around the collars:

For medium length collars (shown) I wrap around each end. For longer collars, I wrap in the middle too. (For shorter callers, I only wrap the middle.). I use clear packaging tape to secure the plastic wrap from unwrapping. (I fold one end of the tape over so there's a "tab" to grab and pull the plastic wrap open.).

Leashes		Part #s
Width	Duty	Webbing	Snap hook
3/8"	light	WE10/B	45/10 NP
	regular		50/10 NP
5/8"	regular	WE15/B/T	60/17Q NP
3/4"	regular	WE20/B/T	60/20Q NP
1"	regular	WE25/B/T	60/25Q CP
	heavy		70/25Q CP

Notes: 1. The 3/8" webbing is the same as the collar webbing. The others are thinner than the collar webbing (and less expensive).

2. I make a light-duty version of the 3/8" leash for use with the 3/8-Long collars (the regular version is intended for 5/8"-Short collars). Also a heavy-duty version of the 1" for use with 1-1/2" collars (the regular version is for 1"-Long collars). To help identify these, I sew the 3/8"-Light with a blue thread, and the 1"-Heavy with amber thread (the regular leashes are sewn with gray thread.) What makes these lighter- or heavier-duty is the bolt-snaps being rated for less (or more) load.

3. The "CP" snaps are chrome plated. They cost a little more than "NP" (nickle plated). Some of the "NP" versions I use are new (I used "CP" versions in the past). I'm hoping the 1" snaps become available in NP (they'd be less expensive). If PetHardware ever stops carrying an "NP" version, look for the "CP" version. Pay attention to the weight rating.

Thread

I use the same thread described for collars (Tex-70 for 3/8 to 3/4 webbing. Tex-90 for 1" - but Tex-70 is strong enough for that.). Since the thread is exposed on both sides, instead of white thread. I use charcoal (7115) for Tex-90, and shark-gray (7090) for Tex-70 (because I haven't found charcoal in Tex-70.) If the the thread pulls through, these colors don't stand out as strongly.

For the 3/8" light-duty leash, I use a blue Tex-70 thread I found on Amazon (ASIN: B06Y63HP4B) so it stands out from the 3/8" regular leash. For the 1" heavy-duty leash, I use Amann's ocher (7477) Tex-90 so it too stands out from the 1" regular leash. (This color is amber, like the color of stitching on blue jeans. Sometimes called "cowboy yellow.").

Cut 65-1/2". This will give you 30 leashes per 50m (1,968") roll. I get 6-3/8 to 6-1/2" hand openings. The resulting length of the leashes are 58-1/4 to 59". (They don't come out the same length because the metal snaps have different lengths. Also, the box-x pattern for wider leashes requires a longer length of overlap at each end.). If I cut 29 pieces, they'd turn out 2-1/4" longer. If I cut 31 they'd be 2" shorter. (Cutting 65-1/2" results an even thirty leashes per roll.).

I often end up with 10-20" extra. It's tempting to cut longer pieces (ex., 1/4" longer per leash * 30 leashes = 7.5" additional webbing used.). Resist that temptation until you see how consistent the excess is. If a roll doesn't have the exact excess all the time, then your last leash will eventually be short. It seems like the 1" webbing is more prone to this (even having a few inches less than it should sometimes).

I save the longer pieces of scrap (over 6") and donate them Goodwill. Sewers can always use odds & ends like this to add handles to a project, or reinforce stress points. (Keep in mind that the 3/8"-wide webbing is the same webbing used for collars. You can use scrap longer than 11-5/8" to make a collar. The other widths of leash webbing are too thin to use for collars. The collar probably wouldn't hold it's adjusted size.).

Marks

The following table shows where to mark the ends (to fold over and sew):

Leashes	Mark ends
Width	Handle	Snap
3/8	14-1/2	2
5/8	14-1/4	2-1/2
3/4	14-3/4	2-3/4
1	15-1/4	3-1/2

Box-x pattern

The 5/8 thru 1" leash webbing is thinner than the webbing for collars. I think the stitching should be spread over a larger area (two bartacks might be too concentrated for the material). Therefore, I sew a box-x pattern (see the sewing section below). The lengths to mark (above) are long enough to fill with a reasonably-sized box-x.

The 3/8" leash webbing is the same used for collars. I sew two bartacks like I do collars. I think sewing a box-x pattern this small would be tedious. The lengths to mark (above) allow for two bartacks 5/8" apart.

Usually the bolt-snap's sliding bolt can feel rough (crunchy) to operate. I'm in the habit of applying a couple drops of "Zoom-Spout" oil. (Mineral oil from the pharmacy would be fine. Anything thin, light like sewing-machine oil. You can get a gallon of "Lily White" on Amazon cheap.). To apply the oil, I inserted a 5/16" diameter steel rod (3' long) into the top of my wire-frame shelving (14" deep):

The rod hangs out 22" in front of the rack. (HAZARD WARNING: my rack is 6' tall & on wheels which adds more height. If your rack is shorter, these rods pose a hazard to someone walking into them, poke an eye out. If it's really low, a dog could hurt themselves.). I slide all the snaps onto the end of the rod (with the webbing hanging down). With all the snaps hanging, I apply 1-2 drops to each sliding gate. I operate each sliding gate 1-2 times to help spread the oil. (Having them hanging this way let's gravity help.). The 3/8" snap-bolt won't fit over this rod. But, I've never had the crunchy feel with those; haven't needed to oil them. If I had to, a 1/4" rod would work.

Hanging the leashes helps with packaging too. They're easy to arrange flat against each other (like I collars). Then wrap with pieces of plastic-wrap from the kitchen to keep bundled together for boxing. (This is hard to do the same way I do collars, laying them on their side. Gravity helps arrange the leashes together that way. For the 3/8" leashes, I don't try to arrange them flat against each other. They're too small to do that.).

Packing labels

I created packing labels you can use (print the PDF, or modify the .odg source with LibreOffice Draw). Like collars, I use ordinary kitchen plastic/cling wrap. I insert a label inside one of the plastic wraps, facing out. I wrap the leashes four times (both ends, and equally spaced in the middle) I use clear packing tape to tape the plastic wrap closed. I fold one end of the tape over to create a tab that can be easily found and pulled to release the plastic wrap. Same as the collars.

I use a Clover Chaco pen (ASIN: B0016ZZOEK with white chalk) to mark the webbing. There's another version (ASIN: B001K56TR2). There's a couple other brands too (Sewphee and Madam Sew). You can buy chalk refill (brand doesn't matter).

I use a cutting hot-knife (page coming). This goes very fast compared to manually marking, cutting & melting two ends per piece. But, a hot-knife isn't very useful by itself. You need a way to dispense the webbing from one side; and measure the length past the blade to the other side. The more you put into that being easy & automatic, the more time-saving the hot-knife will be. You should start with scissors. It'll be some time before that's holding you back.

Before cutting with a hot-knife, I used heavy-duty scissors I bought at Harbor Freight. They don't sell those anymore. I tried other scissors at the time; some didn't work well. You probably want heavy-duty scissors. This multipurpose scissors from HF work ok (not as good as the shorter ones they don't sell anymore. Their shop shear works very well. PetHardware has leather scissors which look like they would work for webbing.

Scissors aren't great for cutting webbing. The material will be rough on the side where the cut ends (a tuft can protrude which takes more work melting into a clean end). PetHardware sells this Razor Plier Tool. The blade comes straight down on the webbing for a clean cut. If I still cut with scissors, I'd definitely try that.

As mentioned, I use a cutting hot-knife (page coming). It cuts & melts at the same time. Prior to that, I used this Harbor Freight hot knife to melt the ends after cuttng with scissors. I mounted it upside-down on a board:

I sit on the floor and roll each end against the surface. It worked well. Setting the dial to 2.6 to 2.8 seemed best for collars. I never used it for thinner leash webbing (I assume cooler would work better. Maybe 2.3. The dial's numbers probably aren't calibrated across each knife - my numbers may not be the same on yours.). Too cool, it will be sludgy, take longer to melt. Too hot will be too liquid, take longer to cool before you can touch it. It can drip. Have a towel in your lap. Don't let a dog get under it. I would wipe each side against the blade, and touch each corner to the blade.

I would shape/smooth the melted surface between my fingers. Blow on the end, wait 1-2 seconds and then apply my fingers. It can burn if too molten. You can tape your fingers with first-aid tape (but, you want to feel what you're doing).

Ventilation

You should protect yourself from the fumes of melting polypropylene. You should wear a respirator with an "organic vapor" filter (not just dust partical protection). Also blow the fumes away. Or, as I did: set up an "extraction fan" to pull the heat & smoke away from the knife:

click for fullsize

That's a Hydrofarm Active Air 4" inline fan (ACDF4). You'll need an Active Air speed adjuster (ACSC2). Without the speed controller, that fan runs too fast for this use (I dial it down to about 1/3 away from the slowest setting). You can get 4" flexible ducting at the hardware store. I route the end out a window or door.

I used a "4-inch to 6-inch duct adapter" as a hood. You can find these online. I had to use tin snips to cut 1" slits (1/2" apart all the way around) so it would fit over the fan's flange:

click for fullsize

You may not have to do that. I used "foil tape" to seal the outside of my "feathered" end. (You can even tape the hood onto the fan. The prior photo shows using a band clamp.).

WARNING: the fan's mounting legs have sharp edges. You can cut yourself pretty badly if you walk into it barefoot (in the dark as I did). A dog running into it (chasing a ball) could cut themselves. I wrapped mine with a rubber bicycle inner-tube (cut open lengthwise). You could wrap a piece of cardboard around the legs (use ordinary "duck tape" to secure that in place).

FWIW: Buying the above ventilation wasn't a wasted investment. Now I use every piece of it with the cutting hot-knife (page coming). Likewise, you can buy the cutting hot-knife instead of the HF melt-only knife. (Use its blade to melt the ends against - you don't have to cut with it. But, it's nice to have as a backup if/when the cutting hot-knife fails.).

I started sewing webbing with a vintage Singer 201-2. Now I use an industrial Juki LK-1900BN bartacking machine which I explain how to use on another page. If you're going to make a lot of collars & leashes, you need the bartacking machine.

To get started, you'll be looking at "heavy-duty" consumer machines. It needs to work with Tex-70, and have a stronger motor than a typical home machine (the 3/4" collar webbing is the hardest). My Singer 201-2 did ok, but I usually had to help it start by turning the handwheel.

I was interested in a Janome 3160 computerized machine after seeing this video showing it automatically sew a bartack. That looked like it could be a lot easier than manually switching fwd/rev with my 201. I never learned if it could sew Tex 70 thread, or how strong the motor is (if it could sew thick webbing). I got the impression that the computer component is generic & used on many machines. Maybe there's another stronger machine with that same computer interface (the same pattern to choose).

I mentioned on the leash sleeve page that I use a Juki DU-1181N for those. That machine would definitely sew this. It handles Tex 90 thread. The only downside I can think of is that the reverse lever is spring-loaded (you have hold it down). That might be harder to work with than the 201's lever which stays put until you move it again. If I were thinking of using this machine for bar tacks, I would consider rigging a foot pedal (or left-knee lever) to hold the reverse lever down. Or, I would pivot the webbing 180-degrees (sewing forward all the time). You can add a "needle positioner" accessory so that it always stops with the needle down. That would make pivoting fast.

Bartacks

A real bartack has a slight zig-zag over a basting stich. Using a straight-stich machine, you'll sew fwd/rev 4-6 times. If you sew many, it's tedious. The LK-1900BN lets you make 4-5 times as many pieces in the same amount of time.

Box-x

For leashes I sew a box-x pattern as shown:

click for fullsize

The leash webbing is thinner. I think a concentrated bunch of stitches (a bartack) isn't as good for that. I think spreading the stitching over a broader area is better (stronger). The 3/8" leash webbing is the same used for collars. I sew bar tacks for those leashes. (I think a tiny box-x would be hard to do.).

Collars sold retail usually have box-x stitches. I don't do that with mine. Box-x usually takes more space, requiring more overlap which reduces the adjustable range of the collar. I do bartacks for collars to minimize the overlap (maximize the collar's range of fit). With my bartacking machine, it's harder to position the box-x stitch. They tend to look worse if not perfectly positioned. I feel like bar tacks aren't as elegant, and don't need to look it either. They can be off, and still look right. (Box-x has a dressy appearance to it, needs to look the part.).